Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Beginner Must Know - What is the purpose of an aquarium filter?
What is the purpose of an aquarium filter?
By Tim Gautrey
To clean the water of debris and suspended particles, remove ammonia and nitrites and aerate the water.
How does it work?
Most filters are divided into three sections: Biological, Mechanical and Chemical.
Biological. An aquarium filter is a breeding ground for two main types of bacteria. This is not something to worry about, quite the opposite. The type of bacteria that filters culture is specifically to work on the chemicals that fish produce through waste. The first type of bacteria breaks down the potentially very poisonous ammonia that fish produce into less harmful nitrites, and then a second type of bacteria breaks down the nitrites into even less harmful nitrates.
Mechanical. The filters will also remove large suspended particles of debris from the water.
Chemical. Some filters allow the addition of Active Carbon in the form of balls, sheets, wadding or crystals. The purpose of this is to remove medications and heavy metal traces from the water.
Aquarium filters come in several different forms, from Under-gravel filter trays, through Hang-on-back (HOB) filters and internal power-head filters to external "Sump" filters. All of them do very similar jobs and all work well. The main criterion for choosing which filter is best is the size of the tank and the load you are going to put it under. Let's take them one at a time and explain the benefits and drawbacks for each. I'll start with the cheapest and work upwards in cost:
Simple Air powered Filters:
Air-box and foam filters, which sucker onto the sides of the tank or just stand on the bottom and contain a filter media, foam or wadding to hold the bacteria and filter out the large debris. These filters are very cheap, often costing just a couple of pounds. The principle of filtration is very simple, using an air stream to force the water through the filter. The principle use for these is in fry breeding, where you need a filter that doesn't cause strong currents and that won't pull the small fry into the internal workings. They also make ideal backup filters for other types and can be setup in minutes. You can even make your own filter like this out of bits and pieces you have laying around! If you have an air pump, you can use this type of filter.
Dis-advantages:
Regular maintenance is a must. These filters can clog up with debris very quickly in heavy load situations.
Not able to handle heavy filtration. These filters are not suitable for tanks where you have diggers, as they clog up very quickly and are limited on the amount of bacteria they can support. You need an air pump to run them.
Under-gravel Filter:
Out of all of the above, this is my personal favorite. Apart from anything else, it is the cheapest and simplest to maintain. Over the years, these have become less popular, mainly due to commercialism, not in-effectiveness. (Retailers make more money by selling more expensive options)
The filter works as follows: It draws water down through the gravel across the entire bottom of the tank through small slots in the tray and forces the cleaned water back to the top through riser pipes in the corner of the tank using either an air stone or a power-head. The filtration is done by the gravel removing the larger particles and the bactreria that lives in the gravel and under the tray removing the harmful ammonia and nitrites. With the Active Carbon filter attachment fitted to the top of the risers, it will also remove heavy metals and medications from the water.
Advantages:
It aerates the water by means of the air stone which draws the water up the riser or simply by the disturbance of the surface in the case of power-heads.
It regulates the water temperature throughout the whole tank, simply by drawing the colder water from the bottom and pushing it out at the top. With the heater placed beside the riser pipe, this water is heated back up straight away, giving more even temperatures.
It is flexible. By the addition of another riser pipe, the filter is capable of carrying a much larger bio-load, which is very helpful for over-stocked tanks. Most trays come with spare riser sockets to add more risers if required.
It is a low-maintenance system. If you are pushed for time, this filter is very forgiving. It won't stop working over a short period of time and can be left for weeks without any concern. It is safe to use with very small fish. So long as the riser pipe is above water level this filter is very safe for smaller inhabitants.
It is good in planted tanks. Plants can root through the gravel and into the slots in the tray to get a good hold.
The cost is minimal. these filter trays are by far the cheapest alternative of all the filtration systems.
Dis-advantages:
Cleaning: Can be difficult if not carried out regularly. (See the article on UGF cleaning for effective and quick ways to clean these filters.)
Air Pump: You need an air pump powerful enough to run this filter effectively. It pays to buy a good air pump as if the pump stops, the filtration stops too.
Substrate: You are restricted with the types of substrate you can use. Gravel is the only effective type of substrate for this filter. If you want to use sand, don't use this filter!
Efficiency: The filter becomes less effective if not cleaned regularly. By regular, I mean at least every six months, which is a lot less than other filter types.
Noise: The filter itself is silent, but sometimes the air pump the runs it can be noisy, so and the sound of bubbles bursting on the surface all the time can get annoying. Careful selection of the pump is very important.
Internal Power-head filters:
By far the most common system used today, these filters come in a range of sizes and shapes to suit most small to medium sizes tanks. They simply sucker onto the side or back of the tank and connect to mains power. The filter works through an impeller drawing the water through the filter media and forcing it back into the tank.
Advantages:
Availability: There is a filter for most common sizes of tank.
Simple to install: They can be fitted into a tank in seconds.
Cleaning: The filters simply slide onto a bracket inside the tank, so removal for cleaning is easy. The media is contained in a removable section of the unit and can be made up of several elements, each one to do specific tasks. They can contain wadding, foam or crystals or a combination of any of the above. If they use foam pads, then you simply rinse them out and replace them when necessary, if they contain wadding, this can be rinsed a few times, but mostly requires replacement each time. Crystals will last for around 4 weeks at a time, then need replacing.
Noise: Most of these filters run quietly.
Dis-advantages:
Looks: The physical size of the filter unit can be a problem if you want to hide it away. As it hangs inside the tank, it also takes up room and in a small tank, this could be a real nuisance. You need to take care when trying to hide it behind plants etc, as there must be clear passage for the water, otherwise it just won’t work!
Cleaning: These filters must be cleaned regularly. They will clog up very quickly in high demand areas and become ineffective very quickly.
Cost: They can be expensive to buy initially, especially the larger ones. The cost of maintenance can be high. Depending on the type of media used in the filter, it can get expensive to keep replacing media all the time.
Water Currents: The current they create can be a problem. Some fish don’t like strong currents, and these fish do not do well in tanks with this type of filter. On the other hand, some fish love it! They also create a strong current at the intake, which can trap or even kill small fish and fry.
HOB or Canister Filters:
Hang on Back or Canister filters are becoming more common these days. I have prouped these two together since they are essentially very similar in performance and operation. They use two pipes that hang or clip over the back of the tank and water is pumped through the filter which can be on the back or anywhere away from the tank. Usually installed in a cupboard under the tank, but also wall-mountable. This type of filter contains lots of different types of media, depending on the manufacturer. Usually fairly expandable too, so individual choices of media can be made according to need. The recommendation for this type of filter is that it should be large enough to circulate ten times the volume of water per hour, which means that a 100 gallon tank requires a filter capable of moving 1000 gallons per hour!
Advantages:
Power: These filters tend to be very powerful and move a great deal of water, capable of handling high demands on medium and larger tanks. Some are also adjustable so you control the power it uses. Effectiveness: For diggers and bottom dwellers they are very effective, since they clean large amounts of water very quickly. On most tanks where these filters are fitted, they give crystal-clear water all the time.
Visability: They are easy to hide away, since it is only the two pipes that enter the tank, and these are easy to disguise.
Current: These units create a really strong current from both ends. The intake needs a good pre-filter fitted to stop the inhabitants being drawn in and the outlet creates a very strong circulation in the tank which is perfect for some fish, but not so good for others.
Dis-advantages:
Cleaning: Can be difficult to clean and some need to be primed before they work. There have also been reports of flooding during the cleaning process, as when installed below the tank water level they can act as a siphon if the valves are not closed properly. Not so prone to clogging as they use lots of media.
Cost: These are very expensive units, and maintenance costs can be high too, depending on the type you buy. The recommendations tend to insist on a much larger unit than you would expect to need. Noise: They can be quite noisy, the HOB filters especially, but canister filters can be installed away from the tank, this means that they can be put in another room if necessary.
Sumps:
Although these are not necessarily the most expensive to buy, I have put them last because they are by far the most adaptable, but need a lot of skill and patience to set up, and the cost is totally dependant on what you use.
A sump is a separate tank, usually a small 20 - 30 gallon fish tank, split into compartments for various uses. A sump is completely adaptable to suit individual requirements, and there are no real guidelines for this. Examples can range from a simple multi-stage filter, through internal heaters, live plants, biological additives, the list is almost endless.
Mainly fitted to the larger tanks, care needs to be taken in the planning, location, building and use intended. Most sumps are purely DIY and usually only attempted by experienced aquarists. Unless you have a real need for this type of filter, stay away from it!
By Tim Gautrey
To clean the water of debris and suspended particles, remove ammonia and nitrites and aerate the water.
How does it work?
Most filters are divided into three sections: Biological, Mechanical and Chemical.
Biological. An aquarium filter is a breeding ground for two main types of bacteria. This is not something to worry about, quite the opposite. The type of bacteria that filters culture is specifically to work on the chemicals that fish produce through waste. The first type of bacteria breaks down the potentially very poisonous ammonia that fish produce into less harmful nitrites, and then a second type of bacteria breaks down the nitrites into even less harmful nitrates.
Mechanical. The filters will also remove large suspended particles of debris from the water.
Chemical. Some filters allow the addition of Active Carbon in the form of balls, sheets, wadding or crystals. The purpose of this is to remove medications and heavy metal traces from the water.
Aquarium filters come in several different forms, from Under-gravel filter trays, through Hang-on-back (HOB) filters and internal power-head filters to external "Sump" filters. All of them do very similar jobs and all work well. The main criterion for choosing which filter is best is the size of the tank and the load you are going to put it under. Let's take them one at a time and explain the benefits and drawbacks for each. I'll start with the cheapest and work upwards in cost:
Simple Air powered Filters:
Air-box and foam filters, which sucker onto the sides of the tank or just stand on the bottom and contain a filter media, foam or wadding to hold the bacteria and filter out the large debris. These filters are very cheap, often costing just a couple of pounds. The principle of filtration is very simple, using an air stream to force the water through the filter. The principle use for these is in fry breeding, where you need a filter that doesn't cause strong currents and that won't pull the small fry into the internal workings. They also make ideal backup filters for other types and can be setup in minutes. You can even make your own filter like this out of bits and pieces you have laying around! If you have an air pump, you can use this type of filter.
Dis-advantages:
Regular maintenance is a must. These filters can clog up with debris very quickly in heavy load situations.
Not able to handle heavy filtration. These filters are not suitable for tanks where you have diggers, as they clog up very quickly and are limited on the amount of bacteria they can support. You need an air pump to run them.
Under-gravel Filter:
Out of all of the above, this is my personal favorite. Apart from anything else, it is the cheapest and simplest to maintain. Over the years, these have become less popular, mainly due to commercialism, not in-effectiveness. (Retailers make more money by selling more expensive options)
The filter works as follows: It draws water down through the gravel across the entire bottom of the tank through small slots in the tray and forces the cleaned water back to the top through riser pipes in the corner of the tank using either an air stone or a power-head. The filtration is done by the gravel removing the larger particles and the bactreria that lives in the gravel and under the tray removing the harmful ammonia and nitrites. With the Active Carbon filter attachment fitted to the top of the risers, it will also remove heavy metals and medications from the water.
Advantages:
It aerates the water by means of the air stone which draws the water up the riser or simply by the disturbance of the surface in the case of power-heads.
It regulates the water temperature throughout the whole tank, simply by drawing the colder water from the bottom and pushing it out at the top. With the heater placed beside the riser pipe, this water is heated back up straight away, giving more even temperatures.
It is flexible. By the addition of another riser pipe, the filter is capable of carrying a much larger bio-load, which is very helpful for over-stocked tanks. Most trays come with spare riser sockets to add more risers if required.
It is a low-maintenance system. If you are pushed for time, this filter is very forgiving. It won't stop working over a short period of time and can be left for weeks without any concern. It is safe to use with very small fish. So long as the riser pipe is above water level this filter is very safe for smaller inhabitants.
It is good in planted tanks. Plants can root through the gravel and into the slots in the tray to get a good hold.
The cost is minimal. these filter trays are by far the cheapest alternative of all the filtration systems.
Dis-advantages:
Cleaning: Can be difficult if not carried out regularly. (See the article on UGF cleaning for effective and quick ways to clean these filters.)
Air Pump: You need an air pump powerful enough to run this filter effectively. It pays to buy a good air pump as if the pump stops, the filtration stops too.
Substrate: You are restricted with the types of substrate you can use. Gravel is the only effective type of substrate for this filter. If you want to use sand, don't use this filter!
Efficiency: The filter becomes less effective if not cleaned regularly. By regular, I mean at least every six months, which is a lot less than other filter types.
Noise: The filter itself is silent, but sometimes the air pump the runs it can be noisy, so and the sound of bubbles bursting on the surface all the time can get annoying. Careful selection of the pump is very important.
Internal Power-head filters:
By far the most common system used today, these filters come in a range of sizes and shapes to suit most small to medium sizes tanks. They simply sucker onto the side or back of the tank and connect to mains power. The filter works through an impeller drawing the water through the filter media and forcing it back into the tank.
Advantages:
Availability: There is a filter for most common sizes of tank.
Simple to install: They can be fitted into a tank in seconds.
Cleaning: The filters simply slide onto a bracket inside the tank, so removal for cleaning is easy. The media is contained in a removable section of the unit and can be made up of several elements, each one to do specific tasks. They can contain wadding, foam or crystals or a combination of any of the above. If they use foam pads, then you simply rinse them out and replace them when necessary, if they contain wadding, this can be rinsed a few times, but mostly requires replacement each time. Crystals will last for around 4 weeks at a time, then need replacing.
Noise: Most of these filters run quietly.
Dis-advantages:
Looks: The physical size of the filter unit can be a problem if you want to hide it away. As it hangs inside the tank, it also takes up room and in a small tank, this could be a real nuisance. You need to take care when trying to hide it behind plants etc, as there must be clear passage for the water, otherwise it just won’t work!
Cleaning: These filters must be cleaned regularly. They will clog up very quickly in high demand areas and become ineffective very quickly.
Cost: They can be expensive to buy initially, especially the larger ones. The cost of maintenance can be high. Depending on the type of media used in the filter, it can get expensive to keep replacing media all the time.
Water Currents: The current they create can be a problem. Some fish don’t like strong currents, and these fish do not do well in tanks with this type of filter. On the other hand, some fish love it! They also create a strong current at the intake, which can trap or even kill small fish and fry.
HOB or Canister Filters:
Hang on Back or Canister filters are becoming more common these days. I have prouped these two together since they are essentially very similar in performance and operation. They use two pipes that hang or clip over the back of the tank and water is pumped through the filter which can be on the back or anywhere away from the tank. Usually installed in a cupboard under the tank, but also wall-mountable. This type of filter contains lots of different types of media, depending on the manufacturer. Usually fairly expandable too, so individual choices of media can be made according to need. The recommendation for this type of filter is that it should be large enough to circulate ten times the volume of water per hour, which means that a 100 gallon tank requires a filter capable of moving 1000 gallons per hour!
Advantages:
Power: These filters tend to be very powerful and move a great deal of water, capable of handling high demands on medium and larger tanks. Some are also adjustable so you control the power it uses. Effectiveness: For diggers and bottom dwellers they are very effective, since they clean large amounts of water very quickly. On most tanks where these filters are fitted, they give crystal-clear water all the time.
Visability: They are easy to hide away, since it is only the two pipes that enter the tank, and these are easy to disguise.
Current: These units create a really strong current from both ends. The intake needs a good pre-filter fitted to stop the inhabitants being drawn in and the outlet creates a very strong circulation in the tank which is perfect for some fish, but not so good for others.
Dis-advantages:
Cleaning: Can be difficult to clean and some need to be primed before they work. There have also been reports of flooding during the cleaning process, as when installed below the tank water level they can act as a siphon if the valves are not closed properly. Not so prone to clogging as they use lots of media.
Cost: These are very expensive units, and maintenance costs can be high too, depending on the type you buy. The recommendations tend to insist on a much larger unit than you would expect to need. Noise: They can be quite noisy, the HOB filters especially, but canister filters can be installed away from the tank, this means that they can be put in another room if necessary.
Sumps:
Although these are not necessarily the most expensive to buy, I have put them last because they are by far the most adaptable, but need a lot of skill and patience to set up, and the cost is totally dependant on what you use.
A sump is a separate tank, usually a small 20 - 30 gallon fish tank, split into compartments for various uses. A sump is completely adaptable to suit individual requirements, and there are no real guidelines for this. Examples can range from a simple multi-stage filter, through internal heaters, live plants, biological additives, the list is almost endless.
Mainly fitted to the larger tanks, care needs to be taken in the planning, location, building and use intended. Most sumps are purely DIY and usually only attempted by experienced aquarists. Unless you have a real need for this type of filter, stay away from it!
Beginner Must Know - Do I need an aquarium chiller?
What is the purpose of an aquarium chiller?
To chill the water in an aquarium. Read below why some fish need this. Although I mention fish only, corals or live rocks need stable temperature too. And some freshwater plants are sensible to dramatic temperature changes too.
Do I need an aquarium chiller?
Well... It depends on the type of your aquarium. If it’s a marine fish tank, then it is very likely that one needs a chiller. This results from the fact that saltwater fish live in waters with very stable temperature (unlike freshwater species). Unless you live in a country where the average yearly temperature stays below 20°C (even in rooms; which is not likely), it is not necessary to buy an aquarium chiller.
The second possibility when one needs a cooler is a coldwater fish tank. Some fish species (especially small ones) from rivers can be kept in home fish tanks, or in fish ponds. Naturally, it is hard to imagine a chiller connected to a garden pond. Back to aquariums... Fish from rivers are accustomed to temperatures of 5 to 20°C, sometimes more. In order to maintain the temperature within some acceptable interval, any such aquarium cannot be without a chiller.
The third situation when a fish tank requires a chiller’s help is too hot temperature (usually during Summer). I won’t discuss this point since it is clear that any fish tank requires help when the temperature exceeds 30°C. If you cannot afford a chiller, you can use chilled water (put a bottle into the regrigerator), ice, or darken the room.
Related questions
Do I need an aquarium chiller for tropical fish?
Tropical fish don’t require cold water, however temperatures higher than 30°C can cause serious problems including death. It is also necessary to realise that the higher temperature in the aquarium is, the less oxygen is present in the water. With the same aeration there is much more oxygen in a fish tank when the temperature is 20°C than when it’s 27°C!
Do I need a chiller for a cold water aquarium?
Yes, this has been already answered above.
Do I need a chiller for a reef tank?
Yes, this is also answered above.
Is chiller important for a saltwater fish tank?
Yes. As it is mentioned already, marine fish live in very specific conditions where the temperature, pH and hardness change much less than in freshwater environments. Any dramatic and sudden change may affect marine fishes, and thus they can even die. So yes, a cooler is very important for a marine aquarium!
How much does an aquarium chiller cost?
I have seen some from $100 (the cheapest) up to $1400 (probably even more; the most expensive on the market). Here is a link which should help you to find one: google.com/products?q=aquarium+chiller&btnG=Search+Products&hl=en&show=dd (the link did work on 29/10/2008, contact us if it doesn’t work any longer, please). Before you buy any, ask the seller about chilling as some smaller (usually characterised by lower wattage) chillers cannot cool the water enough. Then more units are needed to achieve the same effect as a bigger one could do easily.
How do I setup/install an already bought chiller?
It’s good to place a chiller somewhere to an open place due to ventilation. Otherwise it is hard to tell you some “general rules” due to uniqueness of each product, although they operate on the same principle. Always follow the guidelines provided by the manufacturer.
Do Goldfish require an aquarium chiller?
Yes. They’re coldwater fish and unless you want to keep them unhappy, don’t buy a chiller. Moreover, goldfish should be kept in garden ponds rather than in home fish tanks.
Does Axolotl need an aquarium cooler?
Not necessarily. According to an already existing article on Aqua-Fish.Net (this one : aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=axolotl ), these beings lives in environment where the temperature varies between 10°C and 22°C, however sometimes it is even lower than 10°C. Therefore if you’re sure that 22°C is the highest possible during the whole year, then your aquarium doesn’t need a chiller.
What is the principle of how an aquarium chiller works?
First, the water is pumped through the heat exchanger, where the cold compressed gas flows. This compressed gas is there in order to pick up the heat from the water in an aquarium. The heat is taken back to the compressor and the pressure drops. Finally, the heat is taken to a radiator. A fan sucks new air and lets the hot air go out of the chiller. This is taken from another article on our website: aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=aquariumchillers.
Is there a way how to chill an aquarium without a fish tank chiller?
Yes. As it is already mentioned above, darkening the room helps the most. Sometimes this is not sufficient. In such a case do daily water changes and add cooled water into the tank. I found adding ice to be a very useful method to make water colder. About 20 cubes (each of 1x1cm) of ice lowered temperature in one of my aquariums (42L) from 30°C to 27°C immediately. This, however, also depends on how long has been the water in the freezer. The longer, the better effect in the end.
Do aquarium chillers run all the time?
It is possible to run them non-stop, however it is not recommended. It’s like a refrigerator; They don’t chill all the time (it is automated, naturally).
How big should be a fish tank chiller be?
The size doesn’t matter. It’s all about wattage and output, and flow rate. For example, compare these two chillers:
Pacific Coast CL-85 micro chiller
1/4 HP Oceanic Aquarium Chiller
The first one’s output is 85 watt. 80-160 Gallons per hour is the optimal flow rate. The dimensions are: 4" x 4 3/4" x 7 1/2" . The second one’s flow rate is between 475 and 800 Gallons per hour. The dimensions are: 13 x 17 x 17.31 . The difference should be clear. The more gph, the more wattge and space.
What is the best chiller for aquariums?
Although I don’t want to prefer any manufacturer, Oceanic seems to be very good. However, even Mercedes-Benz sometimes produces a car that shows problems after being used. Make your decision based on available funds, warranty, and availability.
What are pros and cons of an aquarium chiller?
Advantages:
Chillers make the temperature stable with no effort. This results in happier fish. Please look at the beginning of this article to understand why some fish simply need a chiller.
If you’re going on a vacation, you don’t have to worry about overheating your aquarium(s).
Disadvantages:
If there is a failure, you should better have a backup chiller (this can be expensive depending on how many fish tanks you own)
Wattage doesn’t have to be the best. Consumption can be a serious problem if you’re keeping fish only as a hobby (more tanks with chillers = more investments).
Can a frozen water bottle act as chiller in a fish tank?
Yes! But for limited time only. It is already mentioned above as a way of using cheaper solutions than buying coolers.
Is it cheaper to run an air conditioner or a fish tank chiller?
This depends on the room and the amount of aquariums, but also on the size of aquariums. If you need to chill only a one fish tank, then an aquarium chiller is better. From what I know air conditioners usually need at least 1KW/h. If you had 10 small aquariums, then buying 10 chillers wouldn’t be wise since their price + their energy consumption will be higher than if you bought an air conditioner only. I recommend you to calculate this equation:
cost of air conditioner + energy consumption of such conditioner = x
cost of chillers + energy consumption of such chillers = y
If x is bigger than y, then it is better to buy chiller(s). Otherwise buy an air conditioner. Also bear in mind that each air conditioner operates for a limited space. So if a room is 10x10 metres big, then it is usually needed to buy at least 2 air conditioners to chill the air to the desired temperature.
How to get a discount when I buy a chiller?
It’s so easy; Ask for it! I mentioned it already a few times on this website. When you’re buying a thing for more than $200, ask for better price! Do not hesitate, it’s your money.
To chill the water in an aquarium. Read below why some fish need this. Although I mention fish only, corals or live rocks need stable temperature too. And some freshwater plants are sensible to dramatic temperature changes too.
Do I need an aquarium chiller?
Well... It depends on the type of your aquarium. If it’s a marine fish tank, then it is very likely that one needs a chiller. This results from the fact that saltwater fish live in waters with very stable temperature (unlike freshwater species). Unless you live in a country where the average yearly temperature stays below 20°C (even in rooms; which is not likely), it is not necessary to buy an aquarium chiller.
The second possibility when one needs a cooler is a coldwater fish tank. Some fish species (especially small ones) from rivers can be kept in home fish tanks, or in fish ponds. Naturally, it is hard to imagine a chiller connected to a garden pond. Back to aquariums... Fish from rivers are accustomed to temperatures of 5 to 20°C, sometimes more. In order to maintain the temperature within some acceptable interval, any such aquarium cannot be without a chiller.
The third situation when a fish tank requires a chiller’s help is too hot temperature (usually during Summer). I won’t discuss this point since it is clear that any fish tank requires help when the temperature exceeds 30°C. If you cannot afford a chiller, you can use chilled water (put a bottle into the regrigerator), ice, or darken the room.
Related questions
Do I need an aquarium chiller for tropical fish?
Tropical fish don’t require cold water, however temperatures higher than 30°C can cause serious problems including death. It is also necessary to realise that the higher temperature in the aquarium is, the less oxygen is present in the water. With the same aeration there is much more oxygen in a fish tank when the temperature is 20°C than when it’s 27°C!
Do I need a chiller for a cold water aquarium?
Yes, this has been already answered above.
Do I need a chiller for a reef tank?
Yes, this is also answered above.
Is chiller important for a saltwater fish tank?
Yes. As it is mentioned already, marine fish live in very specific conditions where the temperature, pH and hardness change much less than in freshwater environments. Any dramatic and sudden change may affect marine fishes, and thus they can even die. So yes, a cooler is very important for a marine aquarium!
How much does an aquarium chiller cost?
I have seen some from $100 (the cheapest) up to $1400 (probably even more; the most expensive on the market). Here is a link which should help you to find one: google.com/products?q=aquarium+chiller&btnG=Search+Products&hl=en&show=dd (the link did work on 29/10/2008, contact us if it doesn’t work any longer, please). Before you buy any, ask the seller about chilling as some smaller (usually characterised by lower wattage) chillers cannot cool the water enough. Then more units are needed to achieve the same effect as a bigger one could do easily.
How do I setup/install an already bought chiller?
It’s good to place a chiller somewhere to an open place due to ventilation. Otherwise it is hard to tell you some “general rules” due to uniqueness of each product, although they operate on the same principle. Always follow the guidelines provided by the manufacturer.
Do Goldfish require an aquarium chiller?
Yes. They’re coldwater fish and unless you want to keep them unhappy, don’t buy a chiller. Moreover, goldfish should be kept in garden ponds rather than in home fish tanks.
Does Axolotl need an aquarium cooler?
Not necessarily. According to an already existing article on Aqua-Fish.Net (this one : aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=axolotl ), these beings lives in environment where the temperature varies between 10°C and 22°C, however sometimes it is even lower than 10°C. Therefore if you’re sure that 22°C is the highest possible during the whole year, then your aquarium doesn’t need a chiller.
What is the principle of how an aquarium chiller works?
First, the water is pumped through the heat exchanger, where the cold compressed gas flows. This compressed gas is there in order to pick up the heat from the water in an aquarium. The heat is taken back to the compressor and the pressure drops. Finally, the heat is taken to a radiator. A fan sucks new air and lets the hot air go out of the chiller. This is taken from another article on our website: aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=aquariumchillers.
Is there a way how to chill an aquarium without a fish tank chiller?
Yes. As it is already mentioned above, darkening the room helps the most. Sometimes this is not sufficient. In such a case do daily water changes and add cooled water into the tank. I found adding ice to be a very useful method to make water colder. About 20 cubes (each of 1x1cm) of ice lowered temperature in one of my aquariums (42L) from 30°C to 27°C immediately. This, however, also depends on how long has been the water in the freezer. The longer, the better effect in the end.
Do aquarium chillers run all the time?
It is possible to run them non-stop, however it is not recommended. It’s like a refrigerator; They don’t chill all the time (it is automated, naturally).
How big should be a fish tank chiller be?
The size doesn’t matter. It’s all about wattage and output, and flow rate. For example, compare these two chillers:
Pacific Coast CL-85 micro chiller
1/4 HP Oceanic Aquarium Chiller
The first one’s output is 85 watt. 80-160 Gallons per hour is the optimal flow rate. The dimensions are: 4" x 4 3/4" x 7 1/2" . The second one’s flow rate is between 475 and 800 Gallons per hour. The dimensions are: 13 x 17 x 17.31 . The difference should be clear. The more gph, the more wattge and space.
What is the best chiller for aquariums?
Although I don’t want to prefer any manufacturer, Oceanic seems to be very good. However, even Mercedes-Benz sometimes produces a car that shows problems after being used. Make your decision based on available funds, warranty, and availability.
What are pros and cons of an aquarium chiller?
Advantages:
Chillers make the temperature stable with no effort. This results in happier fish. Please look at the beginning of this article to understand why some fish simply need a chiller.
If you’re going on a vacation, you don’t have to worry about overheating your aquarium(s).
Disadvantages:
If there is a failure, you should better have a backup chiller (this can be expensive depending on how many fish tanks you own)
Wattage doesn’t have to be the best. Consumption can be a serious problem if you’re keeping fish only as a hobby (more tanks with chillers = more investments).
Can a frozen water bottle act as chiller in a fish tank?
Yes! But for limited time only. It is already mentioned above as a way of using cheaper solutions than buying coolers.
Is it cheaper to run an air conditioner or a fish tank chiller?
This depends on the room and the amount of aquariums, but also on the size of aquariums. If you need to chill only a one fish tank, then an aquarium chiller is better. From what I know air conditioners usually need at least 1KW/h. If you had 10 small aquariums, then buying 10 chillers wouldn’t be wise since their price + their energy consumption will be higher than if you bought an air conditioner only. I recommend you to calculate this equation:
cost of air conditioner + energy consumption of such conditioner = x
cost of chillers + energy consumption of such chillers = y
If x is bigger than y, then it is better to buy chiller(s). Otherwise buy an air conditioner. Also bear in mind that each air conditioner operates for a limited space. So if a room is 10x10 metres big, then it is usually needed to buy at least 2 air conditioners to chill the air to the desired temperature.
How to get a discount when I buy a chiller?
It’s so easy; Ask for it! I mentioned it already a few times on this website. When you’re buying a thing for more than $200, ask for better price! Do not hesitate, it’s your money.
Beginner Must Know - Aquarium Plants
Aquarium Plants
Aquarium Plant Use
There are a number of reasons why aquatic plants are useful in the aquarium.
Freshwater aquarium plants offer aesthetic pleasures to the aquarium viewer. In fact, some cultures prefer to stock their aquariums with plants alone. The Japanese and Dutch are particularly dedicated to aquatic plants. Other aquarium keepers find use for a clump of greenery by concealing an unsightly fish filter.
Aquarium plants can help your fish feel at home. Plants for hiding or breeding purposes can influence the behaviour of your fish in positive ways. Offering fish an underwater garden to swim in provides a refuge from perceived threats. Being able to access such shelters can reduce stress for increased fish health.
Plants can help clean the aquarium water. Healthy plants absorb nitrate thereby removing this and some other toxins from the aquarium. Eliminating these nutrients also robs algae of it's food source for cleaner glass and clearer water.
Aquatic plants can complete a natural setting. In setups such as biotope aquariums some green foliage finishes off the natural environment you may be recreating.
Plants in the aquarium can provide food for fish. Although it is usually undesirable to have your aquatic plants eaten in aquariums, plants can be utilised as fish nutrition
Aquatic Plant Requirements
Plants in your fish tank can be a source of pleasure and frustration. Growing them is similar to growing any other type of plant; you have to meet the basic needs of the individual variety in order to succeed.
An aquatic plant is similar to terrestrial plants in their needs with one major exception - they must live submerged in water instead of air. With an abundance of liquid to support the structure, aquatic plants generally have weaker stems than air plants.
Most difficulties in growing plants in a fish tank arise from the lack of an essential element. Aquatic plants have basic needs that must be met for their successful growth. Taking these requirements into account when planting your aquarium will reward you with healthy aquarium plant growth. Once you have mastered the following elements you will find your plants will flourish.
Aquarium Plant Use
There are a number of reasons why aquatic plants are useful in the aquarium.
Freshwater aquarium plants offer aesthetic pleasures to the aquarium viewer. In fact, some cultures prefer to stock their aquariums with plants alone. The Japanese and Dutch are particularly dedicated to aquatic plants. Other aquarium keepers find use for a clump of greenery by concealing an unsightly fish filter.
Aquarium plants can help your fish feel at home. Plants for hiding or breeding purposes can influence the behaviour of your fish in positive ways. Offering fish an underwater garden to swim in provides a refuge from perceived threats. Being able to access such shelters can reduce stress for increased fish health.
Plants can help clean the aquarium water. Healthy plants absorb nitrate thereby removing this and some other toxins from the aquarium. Eliminating these nutrients also robs algae of it's food source for cleaner glass and clearer water.
Aquatic plants can complete a natural setting. In setups such as biotope aquariums some green foliage finishes off the natural environment you may be recreating.
Plants in the aquarium can provide food for fish. Although it is usually undesirable to have your aquatic plants eaten in aquariums, plants can be utilised as fish nutrition
Aquatic Plant Requirements
Plants in your fish tank can be a source of pleasure and frustration. Growing them is similar to growing any other type of plant; you have to meet the basic needs of the individual variety in order to succeed.
An aquatic plant is similar to terrestrial plants in their needs with one major exception - they must live submerged in water instead of air. With an abundance of liquid to support the structure, aquatic plants generally have weaker stems than air plants.
Most difficulties in growing plants in a fish tank arise from the lack of an essential element. Aquatic plants have basic needs that must be met for their successful growth. Taking these requirements into account when planting your aquarium will reward you with healthy aquarium plant growth. Once you have mastered the following elements you will find your plants will flourish.
Beginner Must Know - Aquatic Plant Oxygen (O2)
Aquatic Plant O2
Oxygen For Aquarium Plants
Oxygen is generally not thought of as an element essential to healthy plant growth. Like fish and most other living organisms, aquatic plants require this gas for respiration. This is the cellular function whereby carbohydrates are consumed to fuel new growth and facilitate biological processes. Thankfully lack of oxygen (O2) is generally not a problem for aquarium plants. As long as your aquarium fish are still alive there is enough oxygen in the water for plants also.
Respiration in plants occurs at a fairly even level during both night and day. It utilises the carbohydrates produced by photosynthesis to build and repair the various tissues of the submerged plants. During the day plants will give of oxygen as a bi product of photosynthesis and thereby produce more O2 than they consume. This is what has lead to the myth that plants do not require oxygen.
While the dark hours dominate plants stop producing oxygen. In fact respiring plants will release carbon dioxide during this time which is a bi-product of the process. This apparent abundance of carbon dioxide will rarely cause any problems for your fish as oxygen will diffuse through the water surface to replace the O2 being used by the aquatic plants.
Oxygen For Aquarium Plants
Oxygen is generally not thought of as an element essential to healthy plant growth. Like fish and most other living organisms, aquatic plants require this gas for respiration. This is the cellular function whereby carbohydrates are consumed to fuel new growth and facilitate biological processes. Thankfully lack of oxygen (O2) is generally not a problem for aquarium plants. As long as your aquarium fish are still alive there is enough oxygen in the water for plants also.
Respiration in plants occurs at a fairly even level during both night and day. It utilises the carbohydrates produced by photosynthesis to build and repair the various tissues of the submerged plants. During the day plants will give of oxygen as a bi product of photosynthesis and thereby produce more O2 than they consume. This is what has lead to the myth that plants do not require oxygen.
While the dark hours dominate plants stop producing oxygen. In fact respiring plants will release carbon dioxide during this time which is a bi-product of the process. This apparent abundance of carbon dioxide will rarely cause any problems for your fish as oxygen will diffuse through the water surface to replace the O2 being used by the aquatic plants.
Beginner Must Know - Aquatic Plant Food
Aquatic Plant Food
Nutrients For Aquarium Plants
Aquatic plants gain nutrients by two main methods. Like land plants many aquatics grow roots which act as an anchor and site for nutrient uptake. Other aquarium plants absorb nutrients through the leaves from the water. Many submerged plants will use a combination of both methods.
Root feeding plants are the most demanding as careful preparation of the substrate is required. Although some success can be achieved in plain gravel it is far from ideal. This is because the fine root hairs prefer a small particles with a high surface area.
Clay can offer plants these conditions when added to the substrate gravel. Iron laterite clays are the ideal variety because they supplement the available iron while being low in phosphorous. The low phosphor content causes fewer algae problems for a healthier aquarium. Iron laterite clays are found in very old geological zones where they have had time for most phosphorous to leach away.
Some nutrients will find their way to the root hairs through water circulation. With heavy feeding plants it is best to use fertilizers with the clay. Do not make the mistake of using ordinary fertilizer though. Not only are the minerals in a form that can not be absorbed, these preparations may kill your fish or promote algal blooms.
Purpose made commercial products are available, they may be called root tabs or fertilizer sticks. These can be added when arranging the substrate or buried later when nutrients have become depleted. You could even make your own by rolling balls of laterite clay containing some liquid aquatic plant fertilizer.
It is these liquid aquarium plant foods that are used to nourish foliar feeding plants. They must be replenished more often than substrate fertilizing methods and the manufacturer’s instructions will often recommend daily or weekly feedings. Using more than required will usually promote algal blooms rather than lush green leaves.
More specialized water plants have made further adaptations for supplementing nutrient intake. Insectivorous aquatics can gain sustenance from catching small prey in the same way a Venus fly trap can.
Other aquatics such as azolla have developed symbiotic relationships with nitrogen fixing blue green algae. The azolla fern and the colony of microorganisms live together mutually.
Nutrients For Aquarium Plants
Aquatic plants gain nutrients by two main methods. Like land plants many aquatics grow roots which act as an anchor and site for nutrient uptake. Other aquarium plants absorb nutrients through the leaves from the water. Many submerged plants will use a combination of both methods.
Root feeding plants are the most demanding as careful preparation of the substrate is required. Although some success can be achieved in plain gravel it is far from ideal. This is because the fine root hairs prefer a small particles with a high surface area.
Clay can offer plants these conditions when added to the substrate gravel. Iron laterite clays are the ideal variety because they supplement the available iron while being low in phosphorous. The low phosphor content causes fewer algae problems for a healthier aquarium. Iron laterite clays are found in very old geological zones where they have had time for most phosphorous to leach away.
Some nutrients will find their way to the root hairs through water circulation. With heavy feeding plants it is best to use fertilizers with the clay. Do not make the mistake of using ordinary fertilizer though. Not only are the minerals in a form that can not be absorbed, these preparations may kill your fish or promote algal blooms.
Purpose made commercial products are available, they may be called root tabs or fertilizer sticks. These can be added when arranging the substrate or buried later when nutrients have become depleted. You could even make your own by rolling balls of laterite clay containing some liquid aquatic plant fertilizer.
It is these liquid aquarium plant foods that are used to nourish foliar feeding plants. They must be replenished more often than substrate fertilizing methods and the manufacturer’s instructions will often recommend daily or weekly feedings. Using more than required will usually promote algal blooms rather than lush green leaves.
More specialized water plants have made further adaptations for supplementing nutrient intake. Insectivorous aquatics can gain sustenance from catching small prey in the same way a Venus fly trap can.
Other aquatics such as azolla have developed symbiotic relationships with nitrogen fixing blue green algae. The azolla fern and the colony of microorganisms live together mutually.
Beginner Must Know - Aquarium Lighting
Aquatic Plant Lighting
Illumination For Aquarium Plants
Illumination is necessary for the planted aquarium. Without it photosynthesis cannot occur and aquatic plants will die after carbohydrate stores have been consumed. Lighting is required to have the correct colour spectrum to be of use for aquarium plants.
Sunlight contains the full spectrum of colour and would at first seem the best choice. However this method of aquarium lighting has notable disadvantages. The indirect light source is often too weak or short for plant functioning. The sunlight may also cause significant temperature fluctuations which will affect both fish and plants with stress.
Artificial lighting selected thoughtfully will provide the full range of required illumination. Today's metal halide lights and fluorescents can both offer aquarium plants the illumination required.
Although metal halide lights achieve excellent plant growth, they have notable disadvantages. Fluorescent lights are more practical because of reduced heat output, increased power savings and the lower initial purchase cost.
For optimal plant growth the tubes in a fluro light should be replaced every six months. The tube may look bright but unperceivable spectrum shifts will occur as the fluorescent tube ages.
Choose fluorescent tubes based on the manufacturer's lighting output descriptions. Most manufacturers will make a bulb suitable for aquarium plants. They are usually cheaper to buy at a large hardware store rather than a pet shop.
A tube rated as 'daylight' will offer a wide colour spectrum and more natural colours for the human eye. Unfortunately these do not provide as much of the best light wavelengths for plants. Dedicated plant growth tubes and the T8 fluorescent globes can often have an unnatural looking purplish colour. They do however offer plants more light in the spectrum that they can use.
You can have the best of both worlds. By combining both a specific plant tube and daylight balanced fluorescent tube you can have lush foliage and natural colours.
The length of light provided should be adjusted to minimise algae growth. Too many hours of illumination in a day will allow algae to flourish. Start at around 10 hours per day and gradually increase or decrease the length until the optimal allocation of light and dark is achieved.
Illumination For Aquarium Plants
Illumination is necessary for the planted aquarium. Without it photosynthesis cannot occur and aquatic plants will die after carbohydrate stores have been consumed. Lighting is required to have the correct colour spectrum to be of use for aquarium plants.
Sunlight contains the full spectrum of colour and would at first seem the best choice. However this method of aquarium lighting has notable disadvantages. The indirect light source is often too weak or short for plant functioning. The sunlight may also cause significant temperature fluctuations which will affect both fish and plants with stress.
Artificial lighting selected thoughtfully will provide the full range of required illumination. Today's metal halide lights and fluorescents can both offer aquarium plants the illumination required.
Although metal halide lights achieve excellent plant growth, they have notable disadvantages. Fluorescent lights are more practical because of reduced heat output, increased power savings and the lower initial purchase cost.
For optimal plant growth the tubes in a fluro light should be replaced every six months. The tube may look bright but unperceivable spectrum shifts will occur as the fluorescent tube ages.
Choose fluorescent tubes based on the manufacturer's lighting output descriptions. Most manufacturers will make a bulb suitable for aquarium plants. They are usually cheaper to buy at a large hardware store rather than a pet shop.
A tube rated as 'daylight' will offer a wide colour spectrum and more natural colours for the human eye. Unfortunately these do not provide as much of the best light wavelengths for plants. Dedicated plant growth tubes and the T8 fluorescent globes can often have an unnatural looking purplish colour. They do however offer plants more light in the spectrum that they can use.
You can have the best of both worlds. By combining both a specific plant tube and daylight balanced fluorescent tube you can have lush foliage and natural colours.
The length of light provided should be adjusted to minimise algae growth. Too many hours of illumination in a day will allow algae to flourish. Start at around 10 hours per day and gradually increase or decrease the length until the optimal allocation of light and dark is achieved.
Beginner Must Know - Carbon Dioxide (CO2)
Carbon Dioxide
CO2 Requirement For Aquarium Plants
Aquarium plants fix dissolved carbon dioxide (CO2) into carbohydrates through photosynthesis. This energy is stored in the stems leaves and tubers, fueling growth as required. It is only consumed during photoperiods when light is available.
Carbon dioxide levels can be supplemented to improve plant growth rates. This can be done by direct injection of carbon dioxide bubbles from an aquarium CO2 product or more primitively using a yeast reactor. Liquid CO2 might also be available in the form of carbonic acid.
There are a number of methods of helping the carbon dioxide bubbles diffuse into your tank water. The injection line can be fed into the impellor or Venturi intake of an internal filter. Alternately a diffusion bell or other product can be used to “catch” the bubbles and hold them until they dissolve.
Whatever method you use it is important to monitor the carbon levels. Large pH fluctuations can result if dissolved carbon dioxide is not kept level. This is generally a much bigger threat to fish than CO2 poisoning.
Surface water movement, splashing and bubbles should be kept to a minimum to keep the carbon dioxide from returning to its gaseous state and leaving the aquarium. For this reason submerged internal power filters are popular in planted aquarium.
CO2 Requirement For Aquarium Plants
Aquarium plants fix dissolved carbon dioxide (CO2) into carbohydrates through photosynthesis. This energy is stored in the stems leaves and tubers, fueling growth as required. It is only consumed during photoperiods when light is available.
Carbon dioxide levels can be supplemented to improve plant growth rates. This can be done by direct injection of carbon dioxide bubbles from an aquarium CO2 product or more primitively using a yeast reactor. Liquid CO2 might also be available in the form of carbonic acid.
There are a number of methods of helping the carbon dioxide bubbles diffuse into your tank water. The injection line can be fed into the impellor or Venturi intake of an internal filter. Alternately a diffusion bell or other product can be used to “catch” the bubbles and hold them until they dissolve.
Whatever method you use it is important to monitor the carbon levels. Large pH fluctuations can result if dissolved carbon dioxide is not kept level. This is generally a much bigger threat to fish than CO2 poisoning.
Surface water movement, splashing and bubbles should be kept to a minimum to keep the carbon dioxide from returning to its gaseous state and leaving the aquarium. For this reason submerged internal power filters are popular in planted aquarium.
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